I've always been an athletic guy and have relished every opportunity on my travels to try a new sport or to push the adrenaline button. Having said that, I never learned to surf. Despite living on the Ocean and having many friends who were surfers, I spent next to no time on a board. The reason why I avoided the teaming-with-life Indian Ocean and the joys of surfing might not be what you expect.
Chapter 24. HOLD THAT THOUGHT BABY...HOW BIG?!

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